Nov, 5 2025
If your car won’t start and you hear a quiet whine or nothing at all when you turn the key, a bad fuel pump might be the culprit. It’s one of the most common reasons cars suddenly refuse to start - especially in cold weather. You’re not alone. Thousands of drivers in Hamilton and across Canada face this every winter. The good news? You might be able to get your car running again without a tow truck - at least temporarily. But there are risks. And you need to know them.
How a Fuel Pump Works (In Simple Terms)
Your fuel pump sits inside the gas tank and pushes gasoline from the tank to the engine. It doesn’t just drip fuel - it delivers it under pressure. Modern cars need between 30 and 60 psi to run properly. If the pump is weak, dying, or dead, the engine gets no fuel. No fuel means no combustion. No combustion means no start.
Some signs you’re dealing with a failing fuel pump:
- Car cranks but won’t start (no sputtering, no smell of gas)
- Engine stalls at high speeds or under load
- Loss of power when accelerating or climbing hills
- Whining noise from the rear of the car when you turn the key to ‘on’
- Intermittent starting - works one day, dead the next
If you’ve noticed any of these, especially in combination, your pump is likely failing. Don’t wait for it to die completely.
Can You Start a Car with a Bad Fuel Pump?
Yes - sometimes. But only if the pump hasn’t fully failed yet. A weak pump might still deliver enough fuel if you give it a little help. This isn’t a fix. It’s a temporary workaround. And it only works if the pump still has some life left.
Here’s what you can try:
- Turn the key to ‘on’ (not start) and wait. Listen for the fuel pump. You should hear a brief 2-3 second whirring sound. If you don’t hear it, the pump isn’t turning on. Wait 10 seconds, then turn the key off. Repeat this 3-5 times. This can help build pressure in the fuel lines.
- Tap the fuel tank gently. Use your fist or a rubber mallet to tap the side of the tank (not the top). Sometimes a stuck pump motor will loosen up with a light tap. Don’t hit hard - you could damage the tank or fuel lines.
- Use a fuel pressure tester (if you have one). Connect it to the fuel rail. If pressure reads below 30 psi, your pump is failing. If it’s near zero, the pump is dead.
- Check the fuel pump relay. The relay is a small electrical switch that powers the pump. It’s often in the fuse box under the hood. Swap it with another relay of the same size (like the horn or AC relay). If the car starts after the swap, the relay was bad - not the pump.
- Try starting with the accelerator pressed slightly. Some older cars respond better if you press the gas pedal just a bit while turning the key. This tells the engine control unit to inject more fuel. It won’t help if there’s no fuel coming through, but it’s worth a try.
These tricks might get you going for a few minutes - maybe enough to reach a gas station or mechanic. But they won’t fix the problem. And they won’t work if the pump is completely dead.
What NOT to Do
There are dangerous myths out there. Don’t fall for them.
- Don’t pour gas into the intake manifold. That’s how fires start. Even a small spark near the throttle body can ignite fumes.
- Don’t keep cranking the engine. Each crank drains your battery. If the pump is dead, cranking won’t help - it’ll just leave you stranded with a dead battery too.
- Don’t assume it’s the battery. A weak battery can cause slow cranking, but if the engine cranks normally and just won’t start, it’s not the battery. Fuel pump failure is often mistaken for battery issues.
- Don’t ignore the smell of gas. If you smell fuel strongly near the rear of the car, your tank or lines might be leaking. Don’t try to start it. That’s a fire hazard.
Why Fuel Pumps Fail (And How to Prevent It)
Fuel pumps don’t just die randomly. They wear out because of how they’re treated.
Here’s what kills them:
- Running on empty. Gasoline cools and lubricates the pump. When the tank is low, the pump runs hot and dry. This is the #1 cause of premature failure.
- Dirty fuel. Old gas, contaminated fuel, or bad filters clog the pump’s internal screen. Debris forces the pump to work harder.
- Old age. Most fuel pumps last 100,000 to 150,000 km. If your car is over 10 years old and the pump has never been replaced, it’s on borrowed time.
To extend your pump’s life:
- Never let your tank drop below 1/4 full.
- Use quality fuel from busy stations - they turnover fuel faster, so it’s less likely to be stale.
- Replace your fuel filter every 40,000 km - it’s cheap insurance.
What to Do When You Can’t Start the Car
If none of the tricks work, your pump is likely dead. Here’s your next move:
- Call for roadside assistance. Many insurance or auto club plans cover towing. Don’t risk pushing or jumping your car - it won’t help with fuel pump failure.
- Get a diagnostic scan. A mechanic can plug in a code reader and check for fuel system error codes. P0087, P0191, or P0230 often point to fuel delivery issues.
- Replace the pump. If the pump is bad, replace it. Don’t just replace the relay or filter and hope it’s fixed. A failing pump will return - often worse.
- Upgrade if you can. If your car is older, consider upgrading to a high-flow or OEM-replacement pump. Some aftermarket pumps last longer and run cooler.
Replacing a fuel pump isn’t a weekend DIY job unless you’re experienced. It requires dropping the tank or cutting an access panel. The job takes 3-5 hours and costs $400-$800 CAD depending on the car. But it’s cheaper than being stranded on the highway in winter.
When to Accept It’s Time for a New Pump
There’s no point in hoping a dying fuel pump will recover. If you’ve tried the tricks, checked the relay, and still get no start - it’s time to face reality. A bad fuel pump doesn’t heal itself. It only gets worse.
Here’s the hard truth: if your car starts after tapping the tank or cycling the key five times, you’re living on borrowed time. That pump could die while you’re on the highway. You don’t want to be stuck in the middle of Highway 403 in December with a dead car and no heat.
Replace it. Don’t gamble.
Final Thought: Don’t Wait for the Worst Case
Many people delay replacing a failing fuel pump because they think, ‘It’s still running.’ But that’s like ignoring a leaky roof because it’s not raining yet. The damage is already happening. The pump is straining. The fuel system is under stress. And each time you start the car, you’re asking it to do more than it can handle.
Start your car with a bad fuel pump? Maybe - once. Twice. But don’t make it a habit. Fix it properly. Your wallet, your safety, and your peace of mind will thank you.
Can a bad fuel pump cause the engine to crank but not start?
Yes. If the fuel pump isn’t delivering fuel to the engine, the engine will crank normally - because the starter and battery are fine - but it won’t start because there’s no fuel to ignite. This is the most common symptom of a bad fuel pump.
How do I know if it’s the fuel pump or the fuel filter?
A clogged fuel filter can cause similar symptoms, but it usually leads to loss of power under load before total failure. If the car starts fine when cold but stalls when hot or under acceleration, the filter might be the issue. But if the car won’t start at all and you hear no fuel pump noise, the pump itself is more likely the problem. Replacing the filter is cheaper and easier - do it first if it’s overdue.
Can I drive with a bad fuel pump?
You might be able to drive short distances if the pump is only weak - but it’s risky. The pump could fail completely while you’re driving, causing the engine to stall suddenly. This is dangerous on highways or in heavy traffic. Don’t risk it. Get it fixed before you drive far.
Why does tapping the fuel tank sometimes work?
Tapping can jolt a stuck motor or carbon buildup inside the pump, allowing it to turn briefly. It’s a temporary fix for a pump that’s on its last legs. It doesn’t mean the pump is fixed - just that it’s still responsive to physical disturbance. This is a sign the pump needs replacement soon.
How much does it cost to replace a fuel pump?
In Canada, replacing a fuel pump typically costs between $400 and $800 CAD. Labor makes up most of the cost - $250-$500 - because the tank often needs to be dropped. Parts alone range from $150 to $400 depending on your car’s make and model. OEM parts cost more but last longer than cheap aftermarket ones.